Here we have information about our cats and kittens and also featured a selection of articles and information some of which is gathered from the WorldWideWeb to help you further understand the breed.
NOTE: Articles have their respected copyright owners! Most articles are collected from the top rated 100 Bengals webpages on the internet
and thus we take no responsibility, since we are not the author. We have provided credits and if you do not agree,
please contact the original copyright owner. For all bengal specific info , please check your local club.
F.A.Q. and Answers
How much of a down payment is required? €250 for a pet kitten , €500 for a show/breeder kitten
When is full payment due?
Payment for pet kittens is required a week before a pet kitten is neutered. . Payment for breeder kittens must be paid in full before the final stages of vet checks are complete (at 11-12 weeks old). Payment by bank transfer is preferred for breeders using couriers to pick up their kittens.
Deposits are non refundable... Why?
All deposits are non refundable as stated on my website for kittens and adults as this secures the animal as being reserved. As stated the deposit is non refundable, so do not ask to have this refunded. By law this ties in with the consumer act.
What are your prices? Prices are €950 euro for a pet kitten and p.o.a. for a breeder or show kitten.
What is your waiting list and down payment policy? A deposit will place you on our waiting list and people on the list will have first chance of available kittens.
Does the price include spay or neuter for a pet purchase? YES All of our pet kittens will be neutered before leaving.
What type of health guarantee do you provide? A health contract will be give with all kittens
At what age do you allow kittens to leave your home? 13 weeks
What vaccines do you do before the kitten goes home? Kittens come fully vaccinated.
What food do you recommend? We recommend royal canine dry and Barkin Bistro raw food.
Do you ship? yes we ship worldwide.
Do you offer stud service? No, our cats are at closed stud
Once we purchase a kitten what kind of updates do we get? We can send regular photos and updates on their development
How are Bengal cats with other pets? Bengals are very friendly and get on well with other pets
What do the different qualities mean? Some cats from other breeders may not come from as good quality breeding than others.
What type of cat litter and litter boxes do you use? We use wood based cat litter.
Do Bengal cats get along well with dogs? YES
How are Bengal cats with children? Very affectionate
Do Bengal cats have different health issues? All pedigree cats would have more health issues than none pedigree cats.
I have heard they have sensitive stomachs, is that true? Occasionally some cats may have sensitive stomachs.
Do they use the litter box faithfully and how many boxes do we need? All our kittens are litter trained when they leave and you will need one litter tray per cat plus one extra.
Are Bengals better off as indoor cats. Yes, the outdoors is a very dangerous place for all cats, but a Bengals curiosity and its liveliness make it an adventurous cat which is capable of putting its life in danger. It is therefore preferable to keep it in an enclosed environment, indoors or outdoors only under the supervision of its owner to prevent it from running away because its "wild" blood pushes it to extend its territory ever further.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED FOR YOUR NEW SUNSTORM KITTEN.
(YOUR SHOPPING LIST).
You will need 3 bowls, one for water, one for wet food and one for dry food.
2 litter trays and wood pellet cat litter, we use woody cat or Cat's Best Nature Gold.
A warm cosy bed for him/her to sleep in. Radiator beds are great.
Scratching posts, climbing tree's and plenty of toys.
You will also need a cat carrier and blanket to bring when you collect him/her.
He/She will need fresh clean water left down at all times NEVER milk.
The kittens are fed 3 wet food meals a day of Raw Chicken Paste with Bone. This can be purchased from https://barkinbistro.co.uk/product/just-chicken-mince-raw-dog-food/ Also Smilla or Animonda Carny grain free canned wet food which can be purchased from www.zooplus.ie Dry food is left out at all times for the kittens to snack on. We use Royal Canin kitten 36 or Animonda vom Feinsten Deluxe Kitten.
This can be left down at all times and just replenished when needed.
Don't be tempted to use cheaper quality food as this could upset the kitten's tummy.
Bengal's are very playful and active cats but not destructive as long as they are given toys and climbers to play with. They form a strong bond with people and with other pets but can be a bit shy at first and need calm time to adjust to their new owner and surroundings. Bengals are not vicious, some but not all Bengals can be shy, a trait inherited from their ALC ancestors. Because the Bengal has very highly developed instincts, if he or she feels threatened, or becomes scared, their instincts tell them to flee. Bengals typically are NOT aggressive. Their reaction to fear is to run away, not to attack. Bengals absolutely LOVE dogs, get along great with other cats, and are wonderful pets for children.
We prefer all our kittens to be indoor cats only as they can be easily killed or stolen if left to wonder. You will be given a health guarantee, vaccination certificate, microchip card, TICA registration form and 4 generation pedigree. You will be required to sign a kitten contract. The kitten will be registered on the non-active register as a pet Bengal but will have show rights if you wanted to do this.
When you take any kitten to a new home there are many rules the new owner needs to follow to make the kitten happy and settle in. Most importantly, you cannot put a kitten into a house with many rooms and expect it to know which room it's tray is in. When the kitten arrives, it needs to be in one small room, preferably with tiled floor so if there is an accident it can be cleaned without leaving a smell which would encourage it to continue marking the same spot. Something like a conservatory, utility room, kitchen or bathroom. In the one room you need to have 2 litters trays the same as what the kitten is used to and the same litter. Everything the kitten needs should be in the one room, so toys, food bowls and bed etc. you should also if possible have a cat tree where the kitten can scratch, jump and importantly hide. Being able to have somewhere to hide is important to cats and you should never pull them out when they are hiding. This room is what we call their safe room and in there the kitten will get used to everything that's new to it including its new owners and when it is ready it will interact with you. Once the kitten is totally settled then you can start allowing access to more of the house making sure it always can easily get back to its safe room. The kitten must be kept as a totally indoor cat.
Introducing your new kitten to your home
This is the most stressful time of your new kittens life and every care should be taken to help him/her settle into their new home. Adding a new kitten to your home can be a very rewarding or a very frustrating experience. It all depends upon how well you plan ahead for the new member of your family.
Before you bring your new kitten home be certain you have: ·
Purchased the same type of food the kitten is used to eating so you won’t upset its stomach by changing its diet suddenly.
Have a clean litter box ready. ·
Have good quality food and water bowls ready ·
Have a cosy soft bed. ·
AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, HAVE A QUIET SMALL ROOM FOR YOUR KITTEN TO STAY IN UNTIL IT BECOMES COMFORTABLE WITH YOU AND IS EATING WELL.
WHY A SMALL ROOM ?
Well, imagine that you have always lived in the same place where you were born and have never left there. You know your siblings, your mother, and your people.
You also know exactly where to find your food, fresh water and your litter box.
NOW, imagine strange people come and take you away from everything you have ever known and drop you into the middle of a big strange house. Wouldn’t you be afraid? Sure !! Would you automatically know where to find your food and water and your litter box? Of course not !! You might run and hide under furniture or in a dangerous location like behind the refrigerator. Then the new people yell for you to get out from under the couch and reach and drag you out. You might get scared of them.
NOW imagine being placed in a small quiet room with food you are used to, fresh water and a litter box all easy to find. You are given time to quietly explore your new space. And soon see that these nice new people mean you no harm, because every time they come to see you they sit quietly and talk sweetly to you and pet you. In a few days you are ready for them to leave the door open so you can start to explore the rest of the house at your own pace.
SO PLEASE, set up a small room for your new kitten. Remove anything that could hurt the kitten and if a bathroom be sure to close the toilet seat. If your kitten cries when left alone and comes running to you when you come to visit, it is ready to become friends with you and start to explore the rest of the house.
IF YOU HAVE OTHER CATS AND/OR DOGS, you will also need to plan for a slow introduction of your new kitten.
PLEASE keep your new kitten away from all of your other pets for at least a week. This gives the kitten a chance to be eating well and become confident with you. It also allows your other pets to begin to get used to the smell of your new kitten. Your other pets will sniff around the door of the room housing your new kitten and you will have its scent on your clothes.
DO NOT force the animals together. Do your best to monitor their interactions. If things get too rough, separate the kitten back to its room. Do not leave your new kitten alone with other pets until you are absolutely sure that they will get along. Don’t leave a small kitten alone with even the sweetest big dog. Accidents can and will happen. When you leave the house, put the kitten back in its room.
IF YOU FOLLOW THESE FEW SIMPLE RULES, YOU WILL FIND BRINGING A NEW KITTEN HOME WILL GO EASILY AND SAFELY.
PLEASE ALSO FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT SUGGESTIONS
My kittens are weaned on a premium quality diet of Barkin Bistro raw chicken paste and Smilla or Animonda Carny grain free canned wet food. I also give them Royal Canin dried “Kitten 36”or Animonda vom Feinsten Deluxe Kitten. Leave a bowl of the dried food and water for your kitten at all times. Give wet/fresh food 3 or 4 times a day, sparingly as too much will upset their tummies. Cows milk is NOT good for cats and will upset their tummies Bengals can be very sensitive to dietary change and it is not advisable to change their diet too quickly, if at all. They are used to wood based cat litter- woody cat or similar. Kittens are wormed with Panacur regularly throughout their development. Your kitten should be wormed again in about 6 weeks time and regularly there after. Kittens will have been fully vaccinated (two vaccines) against feline panleucopenia, calicivirus and feline herpes virus. All vaccinations require an annual booster to maintain cover. Please ensure your kitten is taken to the vets for this every year.
PLEASE be aware of danger from traffic and thieves if planning to let your cat out. We recommend that our kittens be indoor cats only due to these dangers. Houseplants and cut flowers can be very dangerous to kittens. Lillie’s, if ingested are highly poisonous and your kitten will almost certainly be dead within 48 hrs of eating any part of these deadly flowers. Immediate action is required and a trip to the vets essential if this happens. Poinsettia plants, very popular at Christmas are another hazard. Please check information about any houseplant/cut flowers if in any doubt.
WARNING! Please be careful with washing machines, tumble driers etc. as kittens love to crawl into warm dark places to sleep. Ensure all appliance doors are kept closed at all times. Kittens also hate vacuum cleaners and everyone’s sounds slightly different. Do think of your kitten when starting up your vacuum and do it as far away from him/her as possible. We recommend that you have your kitten insured as this can save you in the long term. REMEMBER …the key to a healthy, happy kitten, is to keep him/her STRESS FREE!!
Undue stress can cause a kitten to become unwell, so please bear in mind and give your new kitten space and the peace and quiet they need when they first arrive in their new home. Last but not least enjoy your new kitten and give him/her lots of LOVE and CUDDLES.!!!
OUR KITTEN INFORMATION....
Your new kitten will come from the best breeding lines from throughout the world and will be to the bengal breed standard.
Our kittens come fully vaccinated with Nobivac tri cat, which is done at 9 and 12 weeks.
Kittens will have been wormed three times.
A 5 day course of Panacur at 6 weeks against Giardia, Lung, Hook, Tape and Roundworms.
Drontal All wormer at 9 weeks and with Panacur again at 11 to 12 weeks. We do NOT have any fleas or earmites in our home or cattery and do not treat unnecessarily for this.
Kittens will come with full registration papers on collection. They will be registered with The International Cat Association, on either the Active or Non-Active register. This means they will be registered worldwide and not just in Ireland. They can also be Gccfi Registered if necessary.
They will be microchipped included in purchase price.
If sold as pets on the non - active they will be neutered, included in the price.
They will leave with 4 generation pedigree full of Champions
Kittens will be litter trained and are used to woodbased litter
They will have been checked by a veterinarian at least twice and will come with health certificate/guarantee and kitten contract.
Kittens are very well socialized and handled all the time. Both myself and my husband work from home so kittens in constant contact with us all day.
All kittens bought on the pet register will come neutered, depending on their size. If not already neutered they must be neutered by 6 months of age, registration papers will be with held until proof from your Veterinary Surgeon of neutering.
We are here to help 24/7 and happy to take your calls and answer any questions.
Our kittens start to be weaned at around 4 weeks old but this can vary depending on size of litter etc.
If they are difficult to start weaning we soak royal canin babycat biscuits in royal canin babycat milk and mix it up with a little royal canin instinctive babycat mousse. But we find they normally wean easily onto the raw chicken paste.
They are fed 3 to 4 wet food meals per day. We give "Barkin Bistro" raw chicken paste meat, Smilla, Animonda or Bozita grain free canned wet food alternately in the morning, at midday at teatime and another meal in the evening.
We leave Royal Canin dried food and fresh water down at all times. The kittens occasionally start off with Babycat but soon move onto kitten 36 long before going to new homes.
Sales and Breeding Contract for Sunstorm Bengals Cattery
Alison Coxon : Sunstorm Bengals
New Owner :
Sale price :
Cat/Kitten Name : Date of Birth :
Our kittens come to you with up to date vaccinations, wormed, flea free and in good health at time of sale, it will have been examined at least twice and given a thorough health check by our veterinarian. By signing this contract the buyer agrees that the kitten is in good health and condition at time of collection.
If the kitten is found to be in unsound health by a licensed veterinarian within 72 hours of leaving the breeders premises the kitten/cat shall be returned and the buyer may request a replacement with another kitten/cat of equal quality and value. This guarantee is valid provided there has been no contact with other cats and the kitten/cat has been kept on the same diet. If there is a minor problem and you choose to have it attended to by your Vet, then that will be at your expense. For the protection of the vendor's resident cattery population, a fee may be charged for FeLV, FIV and FCoV testing if the kitten is returned. All return shipping related expenses are the responsibility of the purchaser. Once the cat/kitten leaves the possession of the breeder the breeder cannot be held responsible for any veterinarian bills or charges incurred for the cat/kitten. There will be NO monetary refunds of deposits, purchase price, shipping costs, veterinary expenses or any other costs. The buyer assumes responsibility of all expenses incurred in relation to the cat/kitten after the cat/kitten leaves the possession of the seller, as well as any expense incurred at the request of the buyer before the cat/kitten leaves possession of the seller. Buyer should be aware that these are LIVE ANIMALS and sometimes things may happen that we have NO control over..
If you have other cats, I also suggest you place the new arrival in quarantine during this time and follow the advice of your own Veterinarian in regard to the length of the quarantine period. You, or your Veterinarian, shall report to the vendor any medical problem within the guarantee period. Should the cat/kitten die within six (6) months as a direct result of an unknown at the time of sale congenital birth defect, the said cat/kitten will be replaced with a cat/kitten of comparable quality and value when available, only if an appropriate autopsy is performed by a licensed Veterinarian and a Veterinarian's certificate is provided as proof of cause of death. Trauma, abuse or neglect will void the guarantee. There are no guarantees against cosmetic defects such as lockets or tail faults that may occur after the kitten/cat has been shipped. The kitten/cat is guaranteed to screen HCM negative until the time it is bred from or reaches 2 years of age, whichever comes first. Once the cat has been bred, has a litter on the way or has produced a litter HCM guarantee becomes void.
The cat/kitten is guaranteed against FIP for 1 month after arriving. If the cat/kitten dies within 1 month of arrival then an autopsy must be performed by a licensed veterinarian to confirm FIP was the cause and the vet records must be open/provided to the breeder. There are many reasons why cats/kittens develop this disease, many different situations can affect them developing it and I have no way of controlling or predicting how my kittens are housed, fed, stressed or cared for after leaving my cattery. Therefore I cannot be held responsible if a cat/kitten dies after this 1 month period. Where a replacement kitten is applicable a fee of 300 euro will be charged for veterinary costs for the replacement kitten.
Our kittens are vaccinated against URI with live attenuated feline calicivirus >104.6 PFU and therefore positive test results for calicivirus may occur for up to 6 months after vaccination, for this reason we cannot be held responsible for such positive test results.
Undesirable behaviour issues such as, spraying, inappropriate urination, scratching furniture, etc. developing once the kitten has been turned over to the purchaser are not conditions for replacement. Under no circumstance is a cat or kitten to be destroyed prior to notification by the Buyer to the vendor. Any cat/kitten for which the Buyer expects replacement must be returned to the vendor (at the Buyer's expense) so that identity of the cat/kitten can be verified. "Unsound health" shall be defined as any condition which is "life threatening or "incurable" and shall not include curable conditions or infections such as colds, virus, bacterial infections or skin rashes.
BREEDING AND/OR SHOW ANIMAL
The purchaser agrees to and understands the following conditions :
There are no guarantees given on future health, show achievements or reproduction capabilities of kittens/cats sold with breed and/or show rights. The vendor verifies that there are no precluding reasons why a kitten/cat sold with breeding rights should be unable to produce/sire normal litters. Fertility is guaranteed provided the cat is bred at the buyers premises with at least 3 different proven cats, if no pregnancy's occur by 2 years of age a veterinarian must certify cat is sterile and the cat will be replaced by one of equal quality. All shipping and related costs for replacement to be paid by the buyer. There is NO guarantee's against pyometra, birthing problems or health problems/birth defects of kittens produced. Cosmetic defects such as lockets or tail faults that might occur after the cat is shipped cannot be guaranteed. The process of breeding is not to be taken lightly, and breeders must take measures to educate themselves on the subject.
This cat/kitten must not be resold, traded, given away or re-homed or placed, intact/unaltered into any other breeding program or housed on any other premises except the buyer's as identified in this contract. Males may not be offered at public stud. No kittens produced shall be sold for breeding purposes in UK or Ireland without written permission from Sunstorm. If the buyer should decide not to breed from this cat, no refund or part refund shall be given.
THE BUYER assumes responsibility of all expenses incurred in relation to the cat/kitten after the cat/kitten leaves the possession of the vendor, as well as any expense incurred at the request of the Buyer before the cat/kitten leaves possession of the vendor. If for any reason the cat/kitten is returned to the vendor, BUYER agrees to pay all expenses, including shipping costs, mileage and re-examination expense of vendors Veterinarian. This examination will include a complete 'viral panel' blood test for FELV, FIV and FeCoV viruses.
The cat/kitten shall not be sold, leased or given to any pet shop or research establishment. The cat/kitten shall not be sold, given or donated to any person without the vendors prior knowledge and consent. The cat/kitten shall not be taken from the purchasers country of residence without the vendors prior consent. In the event of the purchaser being unable to maintain the cat/kitten it shall be returned to the vendor. No cash refunds will be given for any reason.
THE VENDOR also wishes that the buyer(s)does not sell to or trade with any breeder located within the same area as the vendor. The Purchaser(s) further understand(s) that if there is a failure to keep any part of this contract, or if the kitten is neglected, maltreated, or does not receive adequate medical care, the purchaser will surrender the said kitten to the vender unconditionally and without financial restitution or compensation.
It is advisable to take out pet insurance for any veterinary costs that may occur.
The purchaser agrees to and understands the following conditions :
The cat/kitten described above shall not be used for breeding purposes. The cat/kitten will be registered with TICA on the Non-Active register.
This is a condition that this cat/kitten must never under any circumstances be bred from.
Sunstorm Bengals agrees to provide registration papers for this cat/kitten upon presentation of a veterinarian's certificate of spaying/neuter
-The kitten has been purchased as a pet and will come to you already neutered by our trusted vet.
-The kitten shall not be sold, leased or given away to any pet shop or research establishment.
-The cat/kitten shall not be sold, given or donated to any person without the vendors prior knowledge and consent.
-The cat/kitten shall not be taken from the purchasers country of residence without the vendors prior consent. In the event of the purchaser being unable to maintain the cat/kitten it shall be returned to the vendor. No cash refunds will be given for any reason.
-The purchaser promises that the kitten will be kept in appropriate conditions for his/hers health and welfare and will be fed a suitable diet for his/her age and condition.
-Will receive regular booster vaccinations from veterinary surgeon.
-Will receive all necessary veterinary care to maintain his/her good health. It is advisable to take out pet insurance for any veterinary costs that may occur.
The purchaser further understands that if there is a failure to keep any part of this contract, or if the kitten is neglected, maltreated, or is failing to receive adequate medical care, the purchaser will surrender said kitten to the vendor unconditionally and without financial restitution or compensation and that the breeder will take the purchaser to the small claims court up to the value of €2000.
SIGNED by the above mentioned Purchaser(s):
SIGNED by the above mentioned Vendor :
IN CASES WHERE A CONTRACT IS NOT SIGNED, FULL PAYMENT AND/OR TAKING POSESSION OF THE CAT/KITTEN WILL BE SEEN AS ACCEPTANCE OF THE TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF THE CONTRACT.
I often get asked if people can come to visit my cattery and cats. So I have decided to make an information page to help my clients.
Although I do understand that buyers may want to do a home visit, I also have to differentiate between genuine buyers and people that are just looking for a nice day out. For this reason I encourage buyers to choose a cat or kitten from pictures and video’s on my website or Facebook page and pay the €250 deposit before visiting. I regularly do videos, photos and text updates and keep in touch with new owners so many choose not to visit until collecting their new kitten. If buyers prefer to choose a kitten in person then I charge a non refundable visiting fee of €250 euro to be paid before visiting. This will be your deposit once you choose a kitten. If you decide against buying a kitten then the visiting fee is not refunded but used towards the care of my cats.
Without wanting to sound rude, I am a reputable breeder and not a pet store, you cannot just turn up to buy a "off the shelf" cat or kitten. There needs to be some preparation before buying a pet and there are things you need to buy in advance of taking your pet home. Many of the foods we feed can only be bought online so will take a few days to arrive and it would be so stressful to take a kitten home without preparing first.
Visiting protocol : People will also often say “Oh we thought you had a cattery we can visit”
I do have a large spacious Cattery, this is a private space for my cats, it’s their home where they feel safe. It is not open to the general public as we are a in home cattery. While my males, some females and females being bred are in my cattery, my kittens are born at raised in my home, often in very private rooms such as bedrooms. For this reason and also because of the ongoing covid pandemic I have a dedicated room for visits and collections with a separate entrance to my home. Due to a very bad reaction to the covid vaccine I cannot have booster vaccinations and I have allergies and asthma so I have to be very careful of the risk to myself and my family. I am the main carer of my animals and I cannot risk being ill. There will be no access to any other rooms in my home and no use of the toilet or bathroom while at my property. There are plenty of places on the way to me in all directions so please stop and do one last toilet stop before arriving at my property if needed.
Weather permitting and whenever possible collections will be done outside otherwise kittens will be brought to the designated room for viewing, as this room has an external door leading directly outside this is not a room that they live in or are used to so kittens will be held while in this room. If the mothers are still in my home, then they will prefer not to be brought into this room. Cats in the cattery can be viewed from outside of their external runs if they wish to come out. There will be no access inside of the cattery. Visits will be limited to two people at a time so it does not get too busy and noisy for my kittens. You will be given a allocated visiting time so not to clash with other visitors or with busy times in my working day. This has worked well for both myself and my clients over the past 13 years I having been breeding, from before and also during the pandemic. I ask that all visitors wear a mask and try to limit the time they are here. Thank you for reading my new visitor information sheet and for understanding the visiting rules.
What we provide & Our breeding ideology
Thank you for your interest in a Sunstorm Bengals. We take great pride in the care of our Bengals.
REGISTERED PUREBRED KITTENS...
A kitten from a registered ethical breeder comes with a pedigree that proves it is the breed they say it is.
Unregistered backyard breeders just breed cats that look like the real thing.
The only difference between kittens and designers bags (aside from the fur!) is that kittens from registered ethical breeders dont cost more.
In some cases they cost less especially when they have vaccinations, microchipping and desexing included in the price.
Registered ethical breeders follow the standards set by their associations and breed for love not money.
WHAT WE STAND BEHIND:
We let our kittens leave at 13 weeks old.
Kittens are fully vaccinated
Kittens will be microchipped by our vet
Pet kittens will be neutered
Kittens will have been wormed several times and be free from external parasites
Kittens will be litter trained
Kittens will be registered with Tica either on the Active register or Pet register
Kittens will leave with a four generation pedigree
You are also very welcome to phone me anytime to ask questions about your kitten if you have a problem.
On the kitten leaving you will be asked to sign a kitten contract.
Kittens can be reserved with a deposit €250 for a pet kitten , €500 for a show/breeder kitten - all deposits are un-refundable.
Please note there will be no cash refunds.
All our kittens bought on the pet register will now be neutered, If they are not already neutered they must be neutered by 6 months of age, registration papers will be withheld until I receive proof from your Veterinary Surgeon of neutering.
Due to the risk of introducing contagious infections and diseases and because our kittens are born and raised mostly in our bedrooms in our home we prefer that prospective owners select their kittens from pictures provided on our website. We will gladly attempt to provide accurate and appropriate good quality photos of kittens in order that selections can be made.We have never had any new owners be disappointed with their kitten when they have arrived to collect him/her. Once decided, it is preferred that you come pick up your new kitten in person but we will ship when necessary.(Overseas only)
International flights depend on location & country requirements.
Our kittens are individually evaluated & priced according to how closely they meet the TICA standard. Kittens which closely meet the standard will have contrast, coloration, type & well defined patterns. (We can't guarantee wins from any show)
OUR BENGAL BREEDING GOALS:
: To raise happy,healthy,loving and very gentle,well socialized bengal kittens. Extreme contrast between spots and background colour. Big....dramatic markings that show the WOW factor.: Excellent long body,head type and super small ears. To produce bengal kittens with lots of glitter and smooth silky soft pelts. To reproduce the beautiful wild exotic look of the Asian leopard cat.
Unlike some other cat breeds, Bengals are not vicious, some but not all Bengals can be shy, this is a trait inherited from their ALC ancestors. Because the Bengal Cat has very highly developed instincts, if he or she feels threatened, or becomes scared, their instincts tell them to flee. Bengals are typically not at all aggressive . Their reaction to fear is to run away, not to attack. For this reason we prefer all our cats to go to indoor homes only. Bengals absolutely love dogs, they get along well with other cats and are wonderful pets for children.
PLEASE DO NOT BUY FROM BACK YARD BREEDERS!
There has been some horror stories about these so called breeders, selling kittens for pennies, not vaccinated, not wormed, not fed properly, kept in dirty sheds, not socialised, not registered, their mums not fed properly, these people buy pet quality or even less from other back yard breeders and breed them time and time again.
Why we only sell our cats and kittens to indoor homes. Please read all about the risks of letting cats roam the dangerous outdoors.
KEEPING YOUR CATS HAPPY INDOORS
For cats, the great outdoors are anything but great. Whether they live in the city, in the suburbs, or in the country, outdoor cats face a multitude of risks. They are exposed to contagious diseases, most of which are fatal. Traffic takes a huge toll on free-roaming cats, and while many people believe their pets are street-wise, no cat looks both ways when being chased by another animal. Further dangers include poisons, leg-hold traps, pet theft, and inhumane treatment by cruel people.
Outdoor cats cause problems, too. They dig and defecate in neighbors’ yards, and as predators, they injure and kill a significant number of wild animals. Cats cannot be trained to ignore their natural hunting instincts. The only sure way to safeguard wildlife is to keep cats inside.
What does your indoor cat miss?
Getting hit by a car, feline leukaemia, attacks by dogs, poisoned food, pesticides, cat fights, fleas, ticks, worms, abscesses, getting lost, getting stolen, steel-jaw traps, human cruelty, gunshot wounds, puncture wounds, wild animal attacks, cold, rainy weather.
Benefits of life indoors
Free-roaming outdoor cats are at risk for a shortened life, while a cat that stays indoors or uses an enclosed catio may live up to 15 years or more. Indoor cats are usually healthier, too, which saves on veterinary bills for treatment of contagious diseases, parasites, and abscesses from fights with other animals. While it is true that cats enjoy sunshine, fresh air, and exercise, they do not need to go outside to be satisfied. Some creative planning on the part of their human guardians can help indoor cats live fully.
Obviously, it is best to keep a cat in from the beginning, especially if you are starting with a kitten or young adult. Most cats who grow up inside show no inclination to leave the safety of home. Other cats who are accustomed to going out can make life miserable for the entire household by clawing at windows, yowling and trying to bolt through open doors. But while the transition may take some time and patience, even the most confirmed outdoor cat can eventually be convinced of indoor comforts.
Tips for making the transition
Many cat behaviorists suggest a gradual approach to bringing an outside cat into the house. If your cat is outdoors most of the day, bring her in for increasingly longer visits. You might time this transitional period as the weather gets colder. Most cats prefer warm, dry places, and by the end of the winter, yours could be converted to life indoors.
If you want your cat to have safe, limited access to the outdoors, consider building an outside enclosure or run. These can be accessible from a window or pet door, and are most entertaining to cats when furnished with tree limbs, perching platforms, boxes and toys.
Cats can be leash-trained so that they may enjoy the outdoors on supervised walks. All you need is a leash and sturdy figure-eight or figure-H style harness from which the cat cannot escape. Never hook the leash to the cat’s collar, but make sure the cat is always wearing a safety collar with license/ID tags. Your cat may resist wearing a harness at first, so let her become accustomed to it gradually. Put it on for brief periods indoors, and later, attach the leash and walk her around the house. When she becomes comfortable with that, venture outdoors for short trips. Do not tie a cat out on a leash or leave her unsupervised, even for a few minutes.
If your cat remains determined to get outside, you may have to just say no to going outdoors. Suzanne Hetts, behavior consultant for the Dumb Friends League in Denver, emphasizes, “For particularly persistent cats, it’s better to go cold-turkey than to occasionally let the cat outside. Letting the cat out when it wants reinforces the pestering behavior.”
Remind family members, housemates, and visitors not to let the cat outside. Post signs near all doors, and if you live with children, teach them to close the door behind them. Be especially cautious with screen doors that may not latch tightly.
Enriching indoor environments
As your cat makes the transition to the great indoors, you can transform your living quarters into a veritable cat paradise. The more you give your cat to do, the happier she will be inside.
Double the space, double the cat’s pleasure. If your floor space is limited, you can expand upward with kitty condos or climbing trees. The taller models, especially those with multiple perches, make the most of vertical space and appeal to cats’ natural interest in heights.
Cats love to sun themselves and enjoy looking outdoors. Install perches or shelves to provide your cat with more windows of opportunity. Bird feeders placed near windows attract a variety of wildlife and engage the interest of indoor cats. Beware, however, of outdoor cats in your neighborhood who might endanger wildlife. If there are marauding felines in your yard, do not feed birds on or near the ground. Use only hanging feeders placed to give wildlife a clear view of their surroundings.
When the weather allows, leave windows open so your cat can get fresh air. Make sure that each window is securely screened so that the cat cannot fall or jump. Many cats enjoy chewing on grass and other plants. Garden centers and pet supply stores sell wheat or oat grass seed to be planted in small pots for indoor cats. Make sure the seed has not been treated with chemicals, and remove all potentially toxic plants from your cat’s environment.
Redirecting claw action
Scratching is a natural and important behavior for cats that helps them stay limber and healthy. But when cats turn their claws on furniture and carpets, this behavior is annoying and destructive. Please see Destructive Scratching and Problems with Declawing for further information.
Cats in Toyland
Outdoor cats have plenty of opportunities for exercise, but it can be a challenge to keep an indoor cat active and fit. The best way to get your cat moving is through interactive play. By encouraging her to pounce, leap, and run laps around the house, you can help your feline couch potato become an indoor athlete.
Often the best toys are the simplest. Cats love to chase catnip toys, ribbons or strips of fabric, and feathers dangled in front of them on wands or short poles.
Don’t discount the most available toys around the house. Most cats love to explore paper bags, boxes and baskets. They often find their own sources of amusement, so don’t be surprised if your cat ignores an expensive toy in favor of plastic milk jug rings, crumpled paper, or an old sock. The key is variety. Rotate favorites in and out of your cat’s toy box, and try hiding toys around the house for your cat to find over time. Read more about cat toys and how to use them.
A last word on making the switch
Despite their owners’ best efforts, some cats will still have a tough time adjusting to life indoors. If your cat shows signs of extreme stress, you and your veterinarian might consider short-term drug therapy to relax the cat during the transition. Another option is to explore homeopathic remedies which can be effective calming agents in many animals. Consult a holistic veterinarian for specific treatments, or find a natural pet supply store that sells herbal remedies.
Do Bengals like to be Touched or Held?
The Bengal personality can run the gamut. In general, they are extremely social cats - wanting to be involved in everything you do, but also, in general, they are an all-four-on-the-floor cat, meaning they prefer to have their feet on a surface at all times. How much petting and holding Bengals enjoy varies - just like all cats - and here is why.
Cats have not been domesticated for many years when compared to many other domesticated animals. Furthermore, the first purpose of cat domestication was not as a pet but as a working animal utilizing its natural behaviour to control rodents. While most of us are consciously aware of cats' predatory role, we must not forget that they have also always been prey to many larger animals. In 1947, cat litter was invented, bringing cats indoors - in some cases - permanently. It is important to remember that having cats as indoor-only pets is a modern idea. Why does all this matter to the touching and holding of cats? Hopefully, it puts a time perspective on the short numbers of years that cats have lived under the protection of people. Evolution doesn't change instinct as quickly as humans have altered the habitat of cats, so cats still have the fight or flight instincts of a prey species animal - and this affects how and where they want to be touched and explains their natural resistance to restraint - which feels like being caught for supper.
Once you understand the cat's instincts as both a predator and a prey animal, you can learn how to touch in a way that is less offensive to a cat, and you can work with your cat through rewards - or bribery - to encourage her to enjoy cat-appropriate touches.
Let's start with touch. A cat's sense of touch is much more magnified than people's. The final kill-move in their hunting process is decided based on what the cat feels with its whiskers - not what it sees with its eyes. This gives some perspective on how important the sense of touch is to a cat. Thus, the whiskers are a cat's most sensitive area, and they do not like to be touched on their whiskers. Most people are familiar with the whiskers on either side of the cat's nose and above the eyes, but did you realize cats also have whiskers on their feet and legs? You want to avoid touching the cat's whiskers on purpose because a firm touch such as ours can be very overstimulating for a cat.
Touch is a way that cats spread their scent onto other cats and items. You may see your cat rubbing her cheeks on your favourite chair. That is because she wants to mix her scent with yours. Thus, one of your cat's favourite places to be touched is just behind the whiskers on her cheek. She loves to get scratches here. She also enjoys scratches behind the ears, at the base of the chin where it connects to the jaw bone, and sometimes at the base of the tail. All cats are different, and you should observe your cat to discover where she likes to be petted the most.
The difficulty is that cats enjoy brief, short-stroked, frequent interactions. Think of how cats groom one another with short, firm licks. People tend to want more extended, long-stroked interactions once or twice a day. Every cat has a different comfort level for how much petting they enjoy. We need to meet our cat at her current comfort level of touch and increase it through the use of rewards (treats) if it is important for us to have longer touching sessions with our cat.
It is important not to touch your cat when it is engaged in a hunt-like play. In the cat's mind, it is out in the wild stalking it's next meal while trying to survive. While cats focus on hunting, they are also vulnerable to attack by larger predators. Touching at this point will likely result in the cat responding with the instinctive fight or flight reaction, so you are more likely to get scratched, or the cat will run away. Neither is a desirable behaviour when working to increase the amount of touch-time with your cat.
The best method of improving your contact with your cat is to follow the cat's lead. Allow the cat to come and lay on you by choice. Stick your finger out, near its face and allow it to rub itself on your finger. When you initially let your cat control the touching, it builds trust in your relationship with leads to more human-initiated petting in the future.
Now that we've covered where to touch your cat and when not to touch your cat, let's tackle the issue of being held.
When it comes down to it, cats do not like restraint because it is not natural for them. Review the second paragraph; it has not been long since cats lived in the wild as both predator and prey. The reason cats have so many kittens in a litter is for species survival. The death rate of cats in the wild is high due to predation. What does being held mimic from the wild? Being caught.
However, cats can be bred to be more accepting of being held. The Ragdoll breed earned its name due to its acceptance of being picked up. If being held for extended periods of time or carried around is a top priority in your wish for a cat, you may want to consider a Ragdoll or an adult Bengal who is the exception to Bengal norm. Bengal norm is cat norm; they have an aversion to restraint. In general, Bengal's higher intelligence and instinct cause them to be in tune with their natural cat status.
There are a few things you can do to increase your cat's tolerance of being held. You'll want to limit the bad experiences that come with restraint and increase the positive ones. Think about all the bad things that happen to you cat - vaccinations, medications, nail trimming, etc. They all happen while being restrained. Anytime you can alter negative experiences while being restrained, do so. Try trimming claws while your cat sleeps. Try hiding medications in food. Additionally, you can increase the positive experiences your cat has with being restrained. Once you find a treat your cat likes, offer a treat for tolerating being held. Increase the time being held slowing. Cats respond best when there is something in it for them, so you need to reward your cat for being held to convince her it is something non-threatening.
It has been 10,000 years since agriculture allowed humans to begin to leave their hunter-gatherer lifestyle behind and form housing and societies. It's been less than 100 years since the cat moved into our homes on a permanent basis. Part of our draw to cats is their independent, instinctual nature. We can't expect them to turn those instincts on and off as we desire. We have to meet our cats at the level of touch and holding that they find comfortable and, essentially, reward them through food to gradually accept a little more.
Are Bengal Cats Hypoallergenic?
By Nial Thomson for Bengals Illustrated
Hypo is the Latin word for low, deficient or insufficient. When hypo is combined with allergenic it forms an adjective, which is defined as having a decreased tendency to provoke an allergic reaction. There does seem to be a consensus among Bengal cat breeders that Bengals produce either no reaction, or a reduced reaction in people who are known to suffer from cat dander allergies. So why is that? I have my theory, but first let’s find out exactly what causes some folks to have an allergic reaction to a cat. The simple answer is dander. Cat dander consists of microscopic pieces of dry cat skin and dried saliva. Cat dander particles are tiny, about one-tenth the size of dust mites. These dander particles easily become airborne and will quickly be present throughout a home where a cat resides. The problem isn’t really the dry skin particles themselves, but a glycoprotein in and on the dander, called Fel D1. Fel D1 is found in a cat’s sebaceous glands under the skin and in a cat’s saliva. This protein is the culprit for susceptible people who are exposed to it. They come into contact with a cat or an environment housing cats and their immune system is launched, which then releases an inflammatory chemical known as histamine. Typical reactions include sneezing, runny nose, congestion, itchy eyes, rash or hives and for those severely affected, asthma attacks. There is plenty of anecdotal evidence from breeders and pet owners alike, suggesting that Bengal cats are more easily tolerated by those afflicted with allergies. To my knowledge there has never been a scientific study done to determine if Bengals produce less Fel D1 than other breeds of cats, but that is certainly in the realm of possibilities. Myself, being someone who is mildly allergic to cats, but has no reaction to Bengals, I have my own theory as to why this is. The Bengal cat is blessed with a very short pelt-like coat that requires little or no maintenance from the cat’s owner. The Bengal cat can Allergic to cats?maintain its coat with much less grooming than many other breeds of cat, and it has been my observation that grooming is less frequent, and the sessions are shorter in duration. This leaves less saliva to dry on the hair to ultimately become dander. In addition, in a normal household situation, healthy Bengal cats shed considerably less than other breeds. This lack of shedding, keeps dander that is still attached to the hair shaft from spreading as easily throughout the home. Several years ago I received a call from a woman who had heard that Bengal cats were hypoallergenic. She wanted to get a cat as a family pet, but her eight year old son was very reactive to cats and would break out in hives within five minutes of coming in contact with one. I cautioned this woman that Bengal cats are not allergen free and that her son may very well still break out. She insisted on coming over, with her son, to test it out. We herded the majority of the Bengals into another room and had the boy sit on the floor with just a couple of cats to pet, while we waited to see if he would start itching. Fifteen minutes passed and he was happily playing with the cats, reaction free. The mother was delighted and asked if all the cats could come out, as she removed the boy’s shirt. For the next hour her son basically wallowed around the floor, shirtless with the Bengals, and did not have even a hint of an allergic reaction. On the other hand, the owner of the pet food store, where I buy our cat food, wasn’t as lucky as the boy. She had never seen a Bengal in person before, so one day I brought one of our cats in to visit. She had mentioned that she was allergic to cats and her reaction was always sneezing and congestion. She marveled at how gorgeous the cat was and pet him quite a bit. Sure enough she soon started to feel congested and got that need to sneeze sensation. Even though she stated her reaction was less severe than normal and there was no full blown sneezing attack, it was clear that in her case a Bengal cat would still cause her to suffer. In conclusion, I think we can say that Bengal cats are hypoallergenic if you go by the true definition of the word. They do seem to invoke less of a reaction in allergy sufferers. However, breeders should not embrace the term, using it in advertising and to describe the Bengal cat, because Joe Public has been led to believe that hypoallergenic means allergen free. Perhaps one day there will be a study to determine Fel D1 levels in Bengal cats and more light can be shed on exactly why this breed appears to be less allergenic than others.
WHAT IS FELINE INFECTIOUS PERITONITIS
FIP is a unique disease in that it is triggered when the commonly present gut corona virus in cats (FeCoV “feline corona virus”) is forced by external stresses to undergo mutation to a much more dangerous virus (FIPV “feline infectious peritonitis virus”), which in turn tricks the immune system into attacking and killing the cat this way.
The cat’s macrophages, which should normally engulf and overcome any virus invader, are instead used as incubators for virus replication and the antibodies produced that should normally be used against the virus, are instead used to attack and destroy the cat.
It is a chronic disease by its autoimmune type but can kill very much faster than most autoimmune diseases.
From these stresses to FIP, it is a 7 to 15 day period to the first phase symptoms of fever, weight loss and leucopenia. It takes an average of 36 days from the stresses to diagnosed effusive form of FIP, called “wet FIP” …. and it takes considerably longer for “dry FIP” to be diagnosed.
Almost all cats have some form of Coronavirus about 95%, FIP is very rare only about 1 in 225 cats infected with coronavirus will go on to develop FIP. Most strains of coronavirus are harmless and do not cause disease. Cats infected with coronavirus generally do not show any symptoms and an immune response occurs with the development of antiviral antibodies. In a small percent of infected cats either by a mutation of the virus or by the immune response not reacting in the normal way, the antibodies that are supposed to protect the cat turn against it and the infection progresses into clinical FIP. No one knows why coronavirus mutates into FIP in some cats and not others or which cats will become infected.
FIP is not a contagious disease, since by the time the cat develops clinical disease only a small amount of virus is being shed. (Feline “Infectious” Peritonitis) was named many years ago, before it was understood that FIP is not contagious. the FIP virus is not transmitted cat to cat each cat has to mutate their own FIP virus to get the disease
Coronavirus is contagious but as stated virtually all cats have the coronavirus. It is not understood why, in a very small percentage of cats, it develops into autoimmune-like disease (FIP).
The wet form of the disease progresses rapidly ( 2 to 4 weeks), and the cat may quickly appear pot-bellied due to fluid accumulation in the abdomen. There is no diagnostic test for clinical FIP. The tests detect the presence of coronavirus antibodies in a cat, but these tests cannot differentiate between the various strains of coronavirus. A positive result means only that the cat has had a prior exposure to coronavirus, but not necessarily that it will mutate into FIP. Low titers indicate a small amount of coronavirus antibodies, while high titers indicate much greater amounts of antibodies. A healthy cat with a high titer is not necessarily more likely to develop FIP or be a carrier of an FIP-causing coronavirus than a cat with a low titer.
To date, there is no way to screen healthy cats for the risk of developing FIP, and the only way to definitively diagnose FIP is by biopsy, or examination of tissues at autopsy.
The way clinical FIP develops as an immune-mediated disease is unique, unlike any other viral disease of animals or humans. There is no treatment and no cure. No one can predict which cats will develop FIP it happens in all cat breeds so if you own a cat there is always a small risk it could develop FIP.
WHAT IS GIARDIA
Giardia is a protozoan parasite. The first life cycle is a fragile, feeding form that lives in the gut of infected cats. The second is a hardy cystic form that is shed in faeces. The cystic form can survive several months especially in moist environments, and is resistant to freezing and water chlorination. Giardia is generally considered the most prevalent parasite in cats. A cat becomes infected after swallowing the cyst stage of the parasite. It's transferred through contact with infected faeces, licking fur after contact with a contaminated surface such as a litter box, or drinking from contaminated water. Cats can be infected with Giardia without developing clinical signs. After exposure, the incubation period is one to two weeks.
Symptoms of Giardia is a foul-smelling diarrhoea ranging from soft to watery, often with a greenish tinge, vomiting, and dehydration. Diarrhoea can be intermittent, and symptoms can persist for several weeks, with a resulting gradual loss of weight loss. The disease is not usually life threatening, but can be serious in kittens or older cats. Panacur is the most effective treatment of Giardia.
WHAT IS TRITRICHOMONAS FOETUS
Tritrichomonas Foetus (TTF) was first recognized in the USA in 1999. This single-celled protozoa lives in the feline colon, and testing is not yet routine at most veterinary clinics. Faecal floats will not detect TTF and it can easily be misdiagnosed as Giardia. A specific TTF test is required to diagnose TTF infection. Infected cats may or may not have diarrhoea. After a cat is infected it could be days or even years before there are symptoms.
Infection is generally spread through shared litter boxes. TTF can live for several days in a moist stool. If untreated, about 90% of infected cats will resolve their diarrhoea issues within two years; however, they will remain carriers and can infect other cats. There is a theory that prolonged exposure to TTF will cause inflammatory bowel disease. Ronidazole is the only drug that has proven successful in eliminating TTF
WHAT IS COCCIDIA
Feline coccidia is a protozoan organism that is common to cats. Coccidia most often affects kittens rather than older cats and symptoms include: watery diarrhea, depression, dehydration, loss of appetite, vomiting, weight loss, abdominal pain and possibly hemorrhage. Coccidia infection can result in death.Older cats can shed oocysts in their feces yet remain asymptomatic until stressed. Stools that contain immature protozoa (oocytes) are harmless until allowed to mature in an open environment. The longer cat stool is allowed to decay, the more chance the oocytes have to develop. Sporulated oocysts can survive as long as one year in moist, protected environments. Infection is caused when kittens and cats come into contact with infected fecal matter, so it's important to scoop litter boxes often. The most effective treatment against this parasite is Baycox.